As forecast in the last blog we left ABC early Thursday morning. The journey to Camp 1 was faster than last time showing that we are acclimatising OK - but the final steep section up to Camp 1 was still as horrible as before! Shortly after the Sherpas arrived with our high altitude boots, ice axes, crampons, harness and gear (the general term for the paraphernalia of climbing, i.e. karabiners, slings, decenders, prussiks, etc).
As soon as we arrived we started the laborious process of melting snow to make tea/coffee and to enable the rehydration of dessicated food. We ate around 6 and with the setting of the sun at 18:40 by 19:00 it was dark.
At 7 the next morning we were up going through the melting/eating process again (I can vouch for Alpen mixed with coffee!). At 8 were were all outside booted and suited and ready to go with the objective of climbing roughly half-way to Camp 2, including the huge serac that must be by-passed by an ice climb (using fixed ropes). From the top of the ice-climb there was an abseil down the serac and a re-tracing of steps back to Camp 1. While this climb is not exceptionally technical climbing steep ice at over 6,600m requires a huge physical effort.
There were a few hours of daylight remaining so people generally went to their tents, although at one stage 6 members of the team were to be found in one 2-man tent playing cards - great for team spirit if not for blood circulation!
Following the same melt/drink/eat routine that we are coming to know so well at dinner on Friday and breakfast on Saturday morning we were off at 8, back down the steep scree to the glacier head and then to ABC.
As ever, our outstanding support team, in addition to meeting us en route with orange juice, had prepared a feast of salami, 3 types of cheese, slices of apple, garlic noddle soup and, just when everyone was groaning with fullness - they produced the 'piece de resistance': burgers, chips and baked beans! To top it off there was plenty of hot water for showers.
As soon as we arrived we started the laborious process of melting snow to make tea/coffee and to enable the rehydration of dessicated food. We ate around 6 and with the setting of the sun at 18:40 by 19:00 it was dark.
At 7 the next morning we were up going through the melting/eating process again (I can vouch for Alpen mixed with coffee!). At 8 were were all outside booted and suited and ready to go with the objective of climbing roughly half-way to Camp 2, including the huge serac that must be by-passed by an ice climb (using fixed ropes). From the top of the ice-climb there was an abseil down the serac and a re-tracing of steps back to Camp 1. While this climb is not exceptionally technical climbing steep ice at over 6,600m requires a huge physical effort.
There were a few hours of daylight remaining so people generally went to their tents, although at one stage 6 members of the team were to be found in one 2-man tent playing cards - great for team spirit if not for blood circulation!
Following the same melt/drink/eat routine that we are coming to know so well at dinner on Friday and breakfast on Saturday morning we were off at 8, back down the steep scree to the glacier head and then to ABC.
As ever, our outstanding support team, in addition to meeting us en route with orange juice, had prepared a feast of salami, 3 types of cheese, slices of apple, garlic noddle soup and, just when everyone was groaning with fullness - they produced the 'piece de resistance': burgers, chips and baked beans! To top it off there was plenty of hot water for showers.